Alexandre Herchcovitch took us back to the 1950’s in his SS 2012 collection. Using vintage fabrics with faded colors, the clothes are bold yet refined. Backstage I chatted with the beauty experts about the looks they created for the show.
Philippe Chansel for Mac Pro Cosmetics walked me through the makeup. “I went with a subtle 50’s inspiration. The fabrics are actually vintage fabrics but obviously he is going to make it more modern—but a little more ladylike, a little dressier. We went for kind of an almost innocent peaches and cream complexion. I used the new match master foundation from MAC and I contoured and highlighted with cream blushes. It was very kind of molded but almost into the skin. On the lip I used tender tones, which are almost like lip balms but with color. They are very very translucent so they just up the model’s lip color and they don’t look like a gloss either. It is shiny but you can tell it’s got more cushion. The look was very feminine and innocent—in a way very soft. The eye was really where the dressing up came in. We used reflects, which are like tiny tiny really small glitter almost and they sparkle. I mixed the red, the blue and the green to look like an opal; because there were some jewels on some of the clothes—so it really looked like an opal. It was like a jewel on the eye and they only caught the light and weren’t overly heavy. We did that first and then all of the other makeup after so it wasn’t sparkly anywhere else, just on the eyelid.”
I caught up with Rolando Beauchamp of Bumble and bumble who designed the hair look for the show. “Well the hair is basically no hair, it is just really simple. As you saw the clothes are amazing. When I went in yesterday to have my little chat with Alexandre, I asked him what his inspiration was and obviously you can see his inspiration was this kind of 50’s, 60’s kind of lady. I wanted to make it look like a lady who had her hair set maybe a week ago, but had no time to go to the hairdresser and pulled it back into a low knot. The way I achieved the knot is with the Bumble and bumble surf spray. I sprayed it around the front; rough dried it with my hands, no brush or comb. Then I pulled it down into a low ponytail and twisted it back into a bun—that’s it no hairspray. For the girls whose hair is worn long, it was blown out with lots of Bumble and bumble thickening hair spray and the center was combed back. I put a hairnet on it to keep the head small and the ends of the hair I set with a curling iron and brushed it out. That was it, and the caps went on.”
Wanda Ruiz, nail fashion expert, with CND walked me through the Herchcovitch nail look. “It is all about the very elegant woman from the 40’s, 50’s and 60’s. He found an original fabric from the 1950’s which is very sheen and silky, some of it has embroidery so we worked off of that. We used soft pretty colors and created a short rounded square, clear tip nail. We coated it with CND’s air dry topcoat and sprinkled some fine white glitter on it and then a vertical stripe down the center of air dry top coat and sprinkled some more fine white glitter on it. And that is basically it; we are calling the look a sugar babe manicure. The kind of woman who would wear the sugar babe is one who is very feminine, looking for a touch of subtle glamour.”